Four Dishes and One Soup 四菜一汤
March 3, 2025
Today, I joined a small group tour to visit Nanjing Tulou,……
March 3, 2025
Today, I joined a small group tour to visit Nanjing Tulou, one of the most famous tulou clusters in China. Our group consisted of five adults and a three-year-old girl. I was the last person to be picked up at 9 AM, and since I was the only solo traveler, I was lucky to get the comfortable front seat in the van. The drive from Xiamen to the scenic area took about two hours.
Upon arrival, I encountered a minor issue with ticket verification—the tour company couldn’t use my passport to purchase the ticket, so they used another person’s ID number instead. At the entrance, I was instructed to tell the attendant that I didn’t have the physical card, only the number. However, the deception was obvious because Chinese ID numbers include the birth year, and I was clearly not born in 1983, which is on the ID. Fortunately, the attendant didn’t question it too much, and I was able to enter without any problems.
Just as our tour started, rain began to fall, so we walked around with umbrellas in hand.
Our first stop was Hegui Lou, built in 1732. This is the tallest square tulou in Fujian, standing at five stories high. It was constructed in a marshy area, relying on wooden columns for support, giving it the appearance of floating on water. Inside, the wells have water levels slightly above the ground, reinforcing its name as the “Water Tulou.”
Next, we visited Cuimei Lou, which wasn’t included in the tour package, so we paid an extra $1.50 to explore the upper floors. Since this tulou was not part of the organized tour, it was much quieter—an excellent spot to admire the architecture and take photos without the usual crowds.
We then strolled through Yunshuiyao Ancient Village, known for its centuries-old banyan trees, cobblestone streets, and flowing rivers, creating a peaceful and poetic atmosphere. However, due to the gloomy weather, the village failed to impress me.
Our next stop was Zhongxing Lou, a square-shaped tulou that now serves as a tulou museum. We were allowed to go up to the upper floors and balconies, which provided a better view of Huaiyuan Lou, our next destination.
Built in 1907, Huaiyuan Lou is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful round tulou in Fujian. It features exquisite wooden carvings and perfectly symmetrical architecture, making it a prime example of classical tulou design. Traditionally, each floor had a specific purpose: the first floor was used as a kitchen and cooking area, the second floor for storage, the third and fourth floors for living quarters, and the fifth floor for miscellaneous purposes, including storing coffins before burial. Nowadays, very few people still live inside the tulou, except for some elderly residents.
After lunch, we visited Yuchang Lou, one of the oldest and largest round tulou in Fujian, built in 1308 during the Yuan Dynasty. This tulou is famous for its tilted wooden columns on the upper floors, which lean significantly due to construction errors, yet the structure has remained standing for over 700 years. Inside, every room on the first floor had a well—a rare feature.
Without a doubt, the best part of the tour was saved for last. The Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster, nicknamed “Four Dishes and One Soup,” did not disappoint. This world-famous site features four round tulou surrounding a square tulou, forming a layout that resembles a traditional Hakka meal, with the round tulou representing four dishes and the square tulou symbolizing a bowl of soup. The aerial view of this cluster is iconic and breathtaking.
Despite the rainy start, the day turned out to be an unforgettable experience, offering a deep insight into Hakka culture, history, and architectural wonders.
Fu Dao 福道
March 1, 2025
Today’s highlight was undoubtedly my hike on Fu Dao (福道),……
今天最精彩的体验无疑是徒步福道(Fu Dao)，。。。
March 1, 2025
Today’s highlight was undoubtedly my hike on Fu Dao (福道), one of the most scenic urban trails in Fuzhou and often hailed as “China’s most beautiful city forest walkway.” Stretching approximately 19 kilometers, this elevated steel skywalk winds through various city parks, seamlessly integrating nature with urban life. I took the 5-kilometer classic route, and the panoramic city views along the way were absolutely breathtaking. The Fu Dao design and construction were impressive.
After the hike, I headed to Shangxiahang (上下杭), similar to three lanes and seven alleys, another historical district in Fuzhou, known for its well-preserved traditional architecture, old merchant houses, and charming riverside scenery. I had lunch there—the food was good, but I ordered too much and couldn’t finish everything.
Next, I visited Yantai Mountain Park (烟台山公园) and its historic streets, but the overwhelming crowds made the experience less enjoyable. The area has a rich history, but I found it difficult to appreciate with so many people around.
Later in the day, I crossed a bridge over the Min River (闽江) and called a Didi to Gushan Shibajing Park (鼓山十八景公园), hoping to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, the weather was cloudy, and the summit was packed with visitors. I spent only a few minutes there before deciding to head back to my hotel.
I had a light dinner at a nearby restaurant and called it a day.
2025年3月1日
今天最精彩的体验无疑是徒步福道(Fu Dao)，这条被誉为“全国最美城市森林步道”的福州著名城市步道。福道全长约19公里，由架空的钢结构栈道组成，穿行于多个城市公园之间，将自然与都市完美融合。我选择了经典的5公里路线，从3号口进5号口出，一路上城市的全景美不胜收，令人惊叹。这条步道确实名不虚传。
徒步结束后，我前往上下杭（Shangxiahang），这片历史街区与三坊七巷相似，以保存完好的传统建筑、古商铺以及富有韵味的沿河景观闻名。我在这里享用了午餐，食物很不错，但点得有些多，没能吃完。
接着，我前往烟台山公园（Yantai Mountain Park）及其周边历史街区。然而，人潮汹涌，使得游览体验大打折扣。尽管这里历史底蕴深厚，但在熙熙攘攘的人群中，我很难静下心来细细感受。
傍晚时分，我步行穿过闽江（Min River）上的一座桥，叫了滴滴前往鼓山十八景公园（Gushan Shibajing Park），希望能在山顶欣赏日落。然而，天气阴沉，山顶游客众多，景色并不如预期。我仅停留了几分钟，便决定返回酒店。
晚餐随意找了一家餐馆简单吃了些东西，随后便结束了这一天的行程。
Three Lanes and Seven Alleys 三坊七巷
February 28, 2025
Today marked the beginning of my first solo travel journey……
今天是我首次独自旅行的第一天。。。
February 28, 2025
Today marked the beginning of my first solo travel journey. I took a four-hour high-speed train to Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian Province. The ride was smooth, and I had pre-ordered lunch from a restaurant in Jinghua City through the 12306 railway app the day before. At Jinghua Station, a train attendant delivered my meal. While the food was average, the experience of having a pre-ordered meal delivered mid-journey was certainly unique.
Upon arriving at Fuzhou Station, I took a short Didi ride to the Hampton by Hilton for less than $3. After a brief rest, I set out to explore the city on foot. A 50-minute walk led me to Three Lanes and Seven Alleys (三坊七巷), a historic district known for its well-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty architecture. The area was lively, lined with tea houses, local shops, and street food vendors. The most photographed attraction was a heart-shaped tree, but overall, the district felt similar to other historic pedestrian streets across China—a blend of old-world charm and modern commercialization.
For a local snack, I tried fish ball and Rouyan soup, both Fuzhou specialties. While they were decent, they didn’t quite impress me. Dinner, however, was a different story. I ordered lychee pork (荔枝肉) and another dish, both of which were delicious and full of flavor. On my way back to the hotel, I passed through a bustling night food market, but despite the tempting aromas, I resisted the urge to try anything more.
2025年2月25日
今天是我首次独自旅行的第一天。我搭乘了四小时的高铁来到福州，福建省的省会。旅途十分顺利，昨天在铁路12306App上提前预订了来自金华某餐厅的午餐。到达金华站后，列车员准时送来了餐食。虽然味道一般，但这种服务方式倒是颇具特色。
抵达福州站后，我叫了一辆滴滴，不用3美元就到了入住的希尔顿欢朋酒店。稍作休息后，我步行50分钟前往三坊七巷，一片保存完好的历史文化街区，充满了明清时期的古建筑。这里有许多茶馆、小店，以及各种当地特色小吃。最受欢迎的景点是一棵心形树，许多游客在此拍照留念。不过，整体逛下来，三坊七巷的体验与国内许多类似的历史街区相似，新旧交融，也略显商业化。
途中，我尝试了鱼丸和肉燕汤，这是福州的传统小吃。然而，味道一般。晚餐则完全不同，荔枝肉和糟菜炒笋香味俱全，让人食欲大增。回酒店的路上，我路过了一条热闹的夜市，摊位上飘来阵阵诱人的香气，但我最终还是没有继续品尝更多小吃。
Taihu Ancient Town 太湖古镇
February 6, 2025
After enjoying a lavish breakfast at the Sun Hotel,……
在太阳酒店享用了一顿丰盛的中西式自助早餐后,。。。
February 6, 2025
After enjoying a lavish breakfast at the Sun Hotel, which included both Western and Chinese buffet options, we called a Didi to head to another famous landmark in Huzhou — the Moon Hotel by Taihu Lake. The hotel also earned an unflattering nickname due to its unique design. The drive from Sun Hotel in Nanxun to the Moon Hotel by Taihu Lake took about fifty kilometers, and along the way, we realized that Huzhou was much larger than we had anticipated.
After checking in, we decided to explore the city. Our first stop was Yishang Street. While there were plenty of people, most of the street food sold by the vendors were common to many other places in China, with little to distinguish them, so we quickly lost interest and left. Next, we visited Zhuangyuan Street and Xiaoxi Street. The area wasn’t large, but it had its own charm, and it was definitely worth a visit. We got tired from walking, so we ducked into a small alley and took a break in a cozy café. The coffee was quite good, and the ambiance was peaceful and relaxing.
For dinner, we chose a restaurant by Taihu Lake, where we ordered a set meal featuring Taihu white fish and Huzhou’s famous thousand-layered dumplings. The meal was decent. In the evening, we headed to Fisherman’s Wharf to enjoy the light show at the Moon Hotel. The lake was calm that night, and the dazzling lights reflected beautifully on the water, creating a serene atmosphere. Afterward, we took a car to Taihu Ancient Town.
Taihu “Ancient” Town is a newly built theme park centered around ancient-style architecture, with food stalls and various performances. It was quite crowded with tourists. We watched a less-than-five-minute iron flower show and also caught a few minutes of a water light show. While the scenes were impressive, the overall experience felt lackluster. After walking around for a while, we decided to leave. Our impression of Taihu Ancient Town was not great. Some areas were littered with trash, seemingly unattended for several days, which detracted from the overall experience.
The next morning, we woke up to see the golden sun slowly rising over Taihu Lake. From our room’s balcony, the sunrise was spectacular, with the lake shimmering under the golden light. It was one of the most breathtaking sunrises we had ever witnessed. However, our stay didn’t live up to expectations. The breakfast at the Sheraton Moon Hotel, priced at ¥188 per person for a buffet, was average at best. The environment was not ideal, and the overall value was low. The hotel room also didn’t meet expectations — the facilities were outdated and didn’t live up to online reviews that claimed it could rival a seven-star hotel in Dubai, which seemed like an exaggeration. In comparison, the Sun Hotel where we stayed the previous night offered better service, dining, and accommodation.
2025年2月5日
在太阳酒店享用了一顿丰盛的中西式自助早餐后，我们叫了滴滴前往湖州的另一个更有名的地标 - 太湖边的月亮酒店。这家酒店因为它的独特设计，大家给它起了个不雅的绰号。从南浔的太阳酒店到太湖边的月亮酒店路程大约五十公里，途中才发现湖州比我们想象的要大得多。
办理入住后，我们决定先去市区逛逛。第一站是衣裳街，街上人流不少，但摊贩售卖的小吃大多是各地常见的美食，并无太多特色，因此兴致不高，匆匆离开。随后，我们来到状元街和小西街，街区虽不大，但颇具特色，值得一逛。走累了，我们拐进一条小巷，在一家小咖啡馆稍作休息，咖啡味道不错，环境也颇为安静惬意。
晚餐选择了太湖边的一家餐厅，点了一份套餐，品尝了太湖白水鱼和湖州千页包，味道尚可。傍晚时分，我们来到渔人码头欣赏月亮酒店的灯光秀，今晚的湖面很平静，璀璨的灯光映照在湖面上，倒是颇有意境。随后，我们乘车前往太湖古镇。
太湖古镇是一个新建的以仿古建筑群为主的游乐园，设有美食摊位和各类表演，游客不少。我们观看了一场不到五分钟的打铁花秀，另外还看了几分钟的水上灯光秀。虽然场面壮观，但整体体验觉得很一般。逛了一圈后，我们便离开了。对太湖古镇的整体印象并不好，部分角落垃圾遍地，似乎已有数日无人清理，影响了游览体验。
翌日清晨，金色的太阳在太湖上缓缓升起。站在房间的阳台上看日出，湖面波光粼粼，景色十分秀美，是我们见过的日出中较为惊艳的一次。然而，入住的体验却并不尽如人意。月亮酒店的喜来登每人¥188自助早餐不仅菜品一般，环境也不够理想，整体性价比不高。酒店客房亦未能达到预期，设施陈旧，与网上有人评价的“可媲美迪拜七星级酒店”相去甚远，多少有些夸大其词。相比之下，前一晚入住的太阳酒店无论在服务、餐饮还是住宿体验上，都更胜一筹。
Nanxun Ancient Town 南浔古镇
February 5, 2025
The high-speed rail to Taihu and NanXun opened……
太湖南浔高铁去年年底刚开通，。。。
February 5, 2025
The high-speed rail to Taihu and Nanxun opened at the end of last year, so we decided to travel light and explore the charm of this Jiangnan water town. The 40-minute high-speed train ride took us directly to Nanxun Station, where a free city bus to the ancient town was waiting. The bus was crowded with tourists, and before long, we arrived at one of the town’s side entrances.
Once inside the town, the first thing we did was search for authentic local snacks. The stinky tofu was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with an irresistible fragrance. The radish oil fritter had a crisp texture and savory taste. Zhou Shengji’s wontons, with their thin wrappers and generous fillings, were served in a delicious broth, leaving a lasting impression.
Next, we headed to the South Gate Tourist Center, where we received free tickets to local attractions in the town with our high-speed rail ticket. We then took a Didi (ride-hailing service) to check in at the Nanxun landmark “Sun” Hotel. After a short rest, we returned to the ancient town. We strolled along the stone-paved roads, with the white walls and black-tiled roofs exuding a sense of history. We visited the Liu Family’s Small Lotus Villa, one of the “Four Symbols” of Nanxun, as well as Zhang’s former residence, where we learned about the life story of Zhang Jingjiang, known as the “Father of Chinese Republican Finance.”
As the sun set, its golden rays bathed the ancient bridges and white walls, casting a warm, soft glow over the town. The entire area was tranquil and beautiful. At night, red lanterns hung along the riverbanks, their reflections dancing on the water’s surface. A gentle breeze stirred the water, creating ripples that looked like a moving painting, enchanting all who saw it.
We returned to the “Sun” Hotel and enjoyed the light show from the bridge, where the dazzling lights lit up the night sky.
The next morning, we were gently awoken by the golden sunrise streaming through the window, pulling us out of our dreams.
2025年2月5日
太湖南浔高铁去年年底刚开通，轻装上阵，凑个热闹去感受这座江南水乡。四十分钟高铁直达南浔站，站外有免费公交直通古镇，车上游客众多，不一会儿便抵达古镇边门。
入镇后，第一件事便是寻觅地道小吃。臭豆腐外酥里嫩，香气四溢；萝卜丝油墩子口感酥脆，咸香适口；周生记大小馄饨皮薄馅足，汤底鲜美，让人回味无穷。
随后，前往南门游客中心，凭高铁票领取免费景点联票，再打滴滴前往南浔地标“太阳“酒店办理入住。稍作休整后，返回古镇。漫步在青石板路上，粉墙黛瓦间透着历史的痕迹。探访南浔“四象”中头象刘家小莲庄，四象之一张家故居，了解“中华民国财政之父”张静江的生平故事。
夕阳西下，余晖洒在古桥与白墙之上，整个古镇笼罩在温暖柔和的光影里，宁静而美丽。入夜，河道两旁红灯笼高挂，倒映在水面，微风轻拂，水波荡漾，仿佛一幅流动的画卷，令人沉醉。
回到“太阳”酒店，在桥上欣赏灯光秀，华灯璀璨。
第二天清晨，金色的日出透过窗纱轻柔地将我们从梦境中唤醒。